Applying Ground Covers
Ground Covers are the 'stuff' you put over your 'ground'. This Tutorial does not cover Static Grass application with a Static Grass Applicator Tool.
Ground in this case refers to the base of your layout or diorama. It can be made of foam, plaster, Sculptamold, acrylic ground paste, 'grass mats' or even simple painted plywood (not recommended). The ground should be painted unless it is acrylic paste (which is colored) or a grass mat (which is colored and textured). Make sure the ground and any coloring is fully dry before applying ground cover.
Most ground covers are made of various types of ground-up foam and acrylic fibers. Some are made from natural materials such as dirt and vegetation. You can use dirt and other objects from your backyard but if you do, make sure to 'cook' the materials in the oven for a few hours (150 degrees or so) to kill fungus and bugs. Also, if used for model railroading, run a magnet over the material to remove any bits of iron (they are bad for trains).
Basic Ground Cover Application:
1) Apply glue to the area being decorated. Use Woodland Scenics (WS) Scenic Glue (for most covers) or Static Tac Glue (for any ground cover or static grass) for best results (or use similar ground scenery glues). If using Scenic Glue or equiv., use a wet brush to thin the glue about 50% and work in small batches to prevent 'skim over'.
2) Apply the ground cover to the area by sprinkling or sifting to distribute it as evenly as desired. The exact method of application will depend on the specific type of ground cover material. Static Grasses are best applied with a Static Grass Applicator device (not covered here). Single products and generic blends are best applied using some type of open container like a small paper cup. Rail Tales Custom Mixes should be applied from the plastic canister after shaking to induce a static charge. No glue should be visible at this stage. Excess can be removed by inverting the area (if possible) or using a low suction vacuum. A sock can be placed over the vacuum to recover and reuse excess material.
3) Use a misting spray bottle (available at garden shops and home centers) to apply a 90/10 (or stronger) mixture of water and isopropyl alcohol to the covered area. Soak sufficiently that the white glue will begin to show in the scenery. This mixture is called 'wet water' and is vital to proper bonding of the material. Persons with allergies to isopropyl alcohol may use a few drops of dish-washing detergent.
4) Use a course sprayer (such as that made by WS) or a dropper bottle or eyedropper to soak the area with WS Scenic Cement (recommended) or matte medium. Edges of the area covered should appear slightly milky at this stage. Once the area is soaked, flowers, leaves, and other highlight materials may be sprinkled over the surface if desired.
Allow a day to dry before applying additional materials to the area such as bushes, trees, etc.
Ground in this case refers to the base of your layout or diorama. It can be made of foam, plaster, Sculptamold, acrylic ground paste, 'grass mats' or even simple painted plywood (not recommended). The ground should be painted unless it is acrylic paste (which is colored) or a grass mat (which is colored and textured). Make sure the ground and any coloring is fully dry before applying ground cover.
Most ground covers are made of various types of ground-up foam and acrylic fibers. Some are made from natural materials such as dirt and vegetation. You can use dirt and other objects from your backyard but if you do, make sure to 'cook' the materials in the oven for a few hours (150 degrees or so) to kill fungus and bugs. Also, if used for model railroading, run a magnet over the material to remove any bits of iron (they are bad for trains).
Basic Ground Cover Application:
1) Apply glue to the area being decorated. Use Woodland Scenics (WS) Scenic Glue (for most covers) or Static Tac Glue (for any ground cover or static grass) for best results (or use similar ground scenery glues). If using Scenic Glue or equiv., use a wet brush to thin the glue about 50% and work in small batches to prevent 'skim over'.
2) Apply the ground cover to the area by sprinkling or sifting to distribute it as evenly as desired. The exact method of application will depend on the specific type of ground cover material. Static Grasses are best applied with a Static Grass Applicator device (not covered here). Single products and generic blends are best applied using some type of open container like a small paper cup. Rail Tales Custom Mixes should be applied from the plastic canister after shaking to induce a static charge. No glue should be visible at this stage. Excess can be removed by inverting the area (if possible) or using a low suction vacuum. A sock can be placed over the vacuum to recover and reuse excess material.
3) Use a misting spray bottle (available at garden shops and home centers) to apply a 90/10 (or stronger) mixture of water and isopropyl alcohol to the covered area. Soak sufficiently that the white glue will begin to show in the scenery. This mixture is called 'wet water' and is vital to proper bonding of the material. Persons with allergies to isopropyl alcohol may use a few drops of dish-washing detergent.
4) Use a course sprayer (such as that made by WS) or a dropper bottle or eyedropper to soak the area with WS Scenic Cement (recommended) or matte medium. Edges of the area covered should appear slightly milky at this stage. Once the area is soaked, flowers, leaves, and other highlight materials may be sprinkled over the surface if desired.
Allow a day to dry before applying additional materials to the area such as bushes, trees, etc.